Just a couple of days before Christmas and we are aware that Maggie will not be on the move. So, Derek and Amy let us use their artsy apartment in Antwerp for the actual holidays. A few trains and a bus later we arrive. As we walk into the building of our artist loft ‘home for the holidays’ we are greeted by a large white stone statue of a reclining nude woman. The small elevator is lined with a mural of more women. Enormous paintings line the generously sized halls. Our friends loft is filled with enticements to creativity. Only the necessities, really, a collection of guitars along one wall, party noisemakers on the mantle, random art supplies and a trappist ale in the fridge. Thanks Derek and Amy. The kids want a tree. Because it is the day before Christmas Eve trees are cheap. We don’t have a tree stand so we tie the top of the tree to the balcony and have a ‘suspended tree’. We get some lights and decorate the tree with chocolate, cheese, sausages, tiny waffles and a couple of marzipan pigs, of course. More Christmas markets mean more gluhwein, gourmet hot chocolate, chips with creamy garlic sauce and waffles. TJ remembers a special sweetie from last time we were in Antwerp with the truck. We remember they are little purple cones with a liquid centre. After a bit of exploring along the tiny streets and in the winter markets nearby and we find them. They are called ‘Cuberdons’ or ‘red noses’. They tend not to export them because of the limited shelf life (6 weeks) and the claim that only about 6 people, have the recipe. You see, the liquid centres chrystalise quite quickly. We have Christmas with just the 4 of us. For New Years, some friends come for a visit. We down to the river with the masses to watch the fireworks. They go. We stay for “Three Kings Day” where minature kings line the streets and sing. We go. Back to the Tooth Palace.